Exmouth & Whale Sharks (By Simon)

After loving every minute of Cape Range National Park we sadly packed up camp and headed back into civilization. Our plan was to have a few quiet days in Exmouth getting ready for the next leg of our trip and go on our highly anticipated swim with the whale sharks (Nath had been counting down the days and researching the tour from long before we left home!).

Our first day in Exmouth consisted of food shopping, clothes washing, oil & filter change on the cruiser, etc. By late afternoon we were ready for something else so we headed out to Bengai Pier for a spot of fishing. It wasn't long before we had a couple of rods in the water and catching fish. We caught so many fish of different kinds that we lost count. And all put up a good fight with our rods almost doubled over, the kids were delighted! Unfortunately, it was Dad who had to retrieve hooks and set the bait!

Unfortunately Western Australia's fishing is so good that their size limits are huge... even the 40cm Cod that Nath caught was undersize. Regardless, we all had a great time.

We also explored the canyons on the east side of Cape Range National Park.

Ningaloo Blue Whale Shark Tour:
Our tour day had finally arrived and we were picked up at our caravan park at 7:15am for the short trip to the boat harbour where we boarded Ningaloo Blue's Venture III.

After a short trip to the outer reef we all jumped in for a snorkel around the reef which was very different to the inner reefs we had been exploring up to this point. The water was a lot deeper but so clear and the marine life amazing (thousands of fish, sting rays, turtles and even a small reef shark).

Only a minute or so after we had climbed back on board we were told to get ready to jump back in as our first whale shark had been spotted and was only 50m away. You could feel the excitement (and nerves) on the boat jump up a notch! In no time we were back in the water and peering into the depths looking for the approaching giant. It was an eerie feeling, not quite knowing what to expect and just then a whale shark the size of a bus gracefully glides into view. The word "awesome" is used willy-nilly these days but it is the best word to describe the experience... it was truly awe-inspiring!

 

I was a little concerned that the kids, one, may have been too scared to snorkel with a whale shark and two, not be able to swim fast enough to keep up. But I needn't have worried on either count. They all did great! The shark slowly swims along, not the least worried about 10 excited humans frantically flapping along side. Nath, Sarah and Emma were all able to get within 3m of the shark and swim along side for some time (see picture of Nath below).

This was an amazing day and we are apparently now included in the 0.1% of the world's population that has swum with a whale shark (truly blessed). We could not have asked for a more perfect day. As Nath wrote in his journal that night "you should definitely try this if you get the chance"!

Cape Range National Park (By Simon & Liz)

We had originally planned to drive from Coral Bay to Cape Range National Park via Yardie Creek Road, a 4WD track which follows the coast north through Ningaloo Station and onto Cape Range. However, after the recent cyclone (March '15) the sand bar at the mouth of Yardie Creek has been washed away and the creek is now impassible (about 100 metres wide and 2 metres deep!) so we were forced to head back to the highway and head up to Exmouth.

We stopped in at Exmouth for lunch and to pick up some last supplies before heading around the tip of North West Cape and down to Cape Range National Park.

Tulkie Beach Camp Site:
Our camp site at Tulkie Beach was simple; seven spacious camp sites and one "Aussie Bush Loo" (the cleanest and best smelling long drop in the country). No power, water, radio, mobile phone reception... nothing! It felt great to be "off the grid".

Our camp site hosts, Michael and Margret were fantastic even giving us a huge feed of Spanish Mackerel which Michael had caught earlier in the day. We had never seen or eaten Spanish Mackerel before but it is certainly an impressive fish (by sight and taste). We all agreed that it was one of the best fish we have ever eaten (apparently it sells for $48/kg in Perth).

Getting ready for a week of no showers, salt water and wind, Liz took some time preparing the girls hair (which they were very happy about and it worked... no knots!)

 
Turquoise Bay:
If we thought Coral Bay was great nothing prepared us for Torquoise Bay! This stretch of beach and sandy point was located only a few kilometres from Tulkie Beach and we spent most of our time there.

The snorkeling was amazing! Just walk up the beach, jump in and drift with the current admiring the coral, fish, turtles etc. The only catch is that you need get back to the beach before you get to the little sandy point as this is where the current picks up speed and turns seaward... next stop India or South Africa!!

 

Other than snorkeling we just enjoyed relaxing on the beach, having the fish swim round our legs and jumping in the fast flowing water and drifting down the beach.

Exploring the Gorges:
We also explored Mandu Mandu and Yardie Creek gorges. Great short hikes up the gorge and then back along the gorge rim. Amazing views of the dramatic gorges with the Ningaloo Marine Park in the back ground.

Also came across a couple of the locals including Red Kangaroo's, Black Footed Rock Wallabies and an Osprey (see below).

Each day ending with a fantastic sunset... don't think we will ever get tired of these!

Coral Bay (By Simon & Liz)

Waking up the next day our hearts sank as we were yet again greeted by grey skies but this didn't last long. By mid morning the clouds had gone making way for brilliant blue sky.

Coral Bay is an amazing place... driving through kilometers of nothing you finally come over a slight rise and see a beautiful bay. The town consists of 2 caravan parks, a couple of small shops, a pub and a small resort complex.

The bay is fantastic with coral reefs only metres off the white sandy beach.

Basically we spent our whole time at Coral Bay snorkeling as follows:
1: Before breakfast.
2: After breakfast.
3: Before lunch.
4: After lunch.
5: Before dinner during sunset.

 Apart from that we drove through the sand dunes to find other secluded places to snorkel which was a great adventure.

 

At one spot we were joined by a Dolphin chasing fish right along the beach who was being followed by a shark looking to capitalize on the Dolphin's success.

The water is warm, the coral is amazing and the fish too numerous to mention (it really is just like swimming in an aquarium). Our favourites are the schools of little "Neon" fish, a huge Moray Eel, multi-coloured Parrot Fish, giant Clam, a bright blue star fish and Spangled Emperors below!

And to top it off, each day ends with the most spectacular sunset!

Could definitely stay longer but more adventures to come further up the coast!

Denham to Carnarvon and Coral Bay (By Simon & Liz)

We had enjoyed our time in Shark Bay but it was time to move onto the highly anticipated Coral Bay (even the name sounds great!).

We packed up early and got on the road. The trip to Carnarvon was short and we arrived for lunch at a great play ground right on the harbor.

As Carnarvon is the last real major town we would see for quite some time we did a big shop to stock up our supplies. Once we had loaded the fridges and camper we contemplated making the 3 hour trip to Coral Bay but as it was getting late in the day we stopped at a Caravan Park in Carnarvon for the night. As soon a we arrived we all jumped in the pool and enjoyed a shower in "soft water".

Nothing much else to say about Carnarvon... good stop to stock up!

The next morning we were off again under clear skies, on our way to Coral Bay. As we drove north the cloud cover increased and started to rain just as we pulled into Coral Bay. We were all a bit disappointed as the weather forecast indicated more the same for the next 4 days. It would be such a shame if our 4 days here were cloudy and rainy!

After setting up we went for a walk on the beach and stumbled upon the daily fish feeding which was a blast... the fish (Spangled Emperors) about 400 to 500mm long swim right between your legs!

Travel Log:
Denham to Carnarvon: 329 km
Carnarvon to Coral Bay: 239 km
Total Trip: 6062 km

Shark Bay - Denham, Monkey Mia & Francois Peron National Park (By Simon)

Shark Bay is one of the places we had planned to stop for a while and we were all looking forward to relaxing and staying in the one place for more than a night!

Day 1: Denham
After a sleep-in and breakfast we strolled into town along the foreshore and explored the town of Denham, visiting the tourist info centre, playground and beach.

We then headed a few km's out of town to Ocean Park Aquarium. We have been to a lot of good Aquariums around the world (Monterey Bay in California being the best) so I was not expecting much from this little Aquarium in the middle of nowhere... but I was wrong! It was fantastic!

We got up close to all the marine creatures that call Shark Bay home. Turtles, Stingrays, amazing fish of all sizes (including the worlds most venomous and worlds most poisonous fish), sea snakes and sharks! The sharks were awesome, we stood on a bridge over the shark pool while they dangled a fish off the edge... the pictures say it all! Needless to say Nath was thrilled!

Reluctantly leaving the Aquarium we drove to Eagles Bluff where we had lunch on the beach and spotted turtles from the lookout.

Back in Denham we all went for swim out to a pontoon off the beach (I think we were all a little more wary from what we had seen earlier in the day).

Walking back to our camp site we passed the fish cleaning station where 5 guys had just returned from a 5 day fishing charter and were cleaning their catch. Wow! Huge Tuna, Snapper and Spanish Mackerel. When they had finished they had 3 big eskies (US = cooler) full of fillets, each of which needed 4 guys to carry.

Day 2: Monkey Mia
The alarm went off at 6:30am and after a quick breakfast we drove out to Monkey Mia in time for the first "Dolphin Experience" at 7:45am. A crowd had gathered on the beach and at least 11 Dolphins swam up and down the beach waiting for a free feed. It was amazing to get so close to these animals.

 

We stayed on the beach for the morning and attended the next 2 sessions which were equally well attended by the Dolphins. After the last session (they only run a maximum of 3) we headed down the beach and spent the rest of the day on the beach, rented a kayak and swam in the resort pool.

The highlight of the day was late in the afternoon when most other people had left. The Dolphins returned and we were able to paddle out on the kayak and have the Dolphins swim all around us close enough to feel the spray from their blowholes. Amazing finish to a great day.

Day 3: François Peron National Park
After a little shopping to stock up on supplies we headed out to Francois Peron National Park. We first did a self guided tour of the old sheep station (the pastoral lease was bought back by the Government in 1991 who then established the National Park) which was very interesting.

We then reduced the air pressure in our tyres to about 20psi and ventured out onto the very sandy tracks on our way to Cape Peron. The tracks were definitely 4WD only and we only managed a top speed of about 40kph through the deep sand. It was a long trek but well worth it. Cape Peron is visually stunning, bright red cliffs set against equally bright blue sky, white sandy beaches and turquoise water.

We took the short hike up to the very tip of the cape then drove back to a little beach we had seen on the way up (Bottle Bay) where we had lunch on the tailgate followed by a swim and snorkel.

After a relaxing afternoon on the beach (including some homework for the kids... ie: times tables using sea shells) we headed back down the sandy tracks. Once back at the sheep station we jumped in the Artesian Hot Tub (water from a 540m bore bubbles into a round tank at about 40 deg. C) which was a great way to finish the day.

Day 4: Monkey Mia and François Peron National Park (again)
Thursday was our last day at Denham so we gave the kids the choice of what they wanted to do. They all agreed to go to Monkey Mia again to see the Dolphins.

The Dolphins did not come into the beach for quite a while with only 1 or 2 Dolphins at the first session but by the second and third it seemed like the whole family had returned. The experience was pretty much the same as the 1st day we had come to Monkey Mia except that both Sarah and I were chosen to feed the Dolphins which was very cool.

A strong wind was blowing cross shore at Monkey Mia so we decided to head back to Francois Peron National Park and visit Big Lagoon which we hadn't seen the day before. More deep sandy tracks, red, blue and turquoise scenery and a relaxing lunch and afternoon fishing in Big Lagoon (no success with the fishing).

As the wind died down late afternoon we drove back to Monkey Mia to watch the sun go down and the kids went for a swim in the ocean and resort pool.

Kalbarri to Shark Bay (By Simon)

We awoke to another awesome sunrise at Murchison House Station and packed up while the kids enjoyed the shearing shed, friends and goats!

I was a little worried that we may not get the camper out of it's sandy little camp site by the river (it had sunk a little in the sand over our two day stay) but after a little shoveling to get the tow ball under the hitch the Cruiser made little effort of it.

On our way out of Kalbarri we called into another 2 gorges; Hawks Head and Ross Graham. Both were great but at the latter we were able to hike down into the gorge to the banks of the Murchison River which was still in flood and good to see.

On the road again we rejoined the Great Northern Highway and headed for Shark Bay.

Driving onto the Peron Peninsula we called in and saw the Stromatolites in Hamelin Pool. This was the first we had heard of Stromatolites and the informative boardwalk was quite and education (in case you don't know Stromatolites are rock-like structures built by microbes (single-celled cyanobacteria, also known as blue-green algae). Hamelin Pool is one of only three places on Earth where you can see living marine Stromatolites). Liz and the kids didn't find this quite so interesting!

A few km's down the road we stopped at Shell Beach... now that's more like it! A beach made completely of shells about 200m wide and up to 10m deep.

Late afternoon we reached our destination of Denham. As we turned onto the foreshore we spotted 2  Dolphin's chasing fish only a couple of metres off the beach. Liz and the kids were out of the car before I could stop. Amazing welcome to this sleepy hollow.

Interesting / funny things we've learnt along the way! (By all of us!)

Interesting points along the way!

- when traveling on the Nullarbor all oncoming vehicles give you a wave!

- we think Wedge Tailed Eagles are bigger than Bald Eagles!

- we have met a lot of "Grey Nomads" all happy to tell a story or two!

- the stars in the night sky are truly amazing out here!

- Nath really does not like flies!

- it's amazing how many toilet stops we've made in weird & wonderful places.

- we have lost count of the number of grain silo's we have passed!

- Emu's shake their tail feather when they run! (kids think it's hilarious!)

- when had enough of fishing, some of us don't mind jumping off the Streaky Bay jetty in our undies!

- Mum has caught the biggest fish so far!

- Sarah could live on Peanut butter & honey sandwiches!

- there are no Magpies out here, just crows!

- fly nets were a good investment!

- our favourite dinner so far, our Rueben Sandwiches!

- Emma's walking boots constantly "need new batteries Dad" to make it though our hikes!

- house work takes 5 mins! Yeah!! Clothes washing not so fun in a bucket!

- Denham has the most expensive water in Australia (caravan park paid $41,000 for 4 mths)!

- The Murchison River  is the longest river in WA, with a catchment area larger than Tassi!

To be continued...

Murchison House Station & Kalbarri National Park (By Simon)

Driving down the long, muddy driveway and setting up camp in the rain did not give the greatest first impression of Murchison House Station. However, by morning, bathed in the orange glow of a brilliant sunrise the place was transformed.

Murchison House Station is a 350 thousand acre working station bordering the Kalbarri National Park. Our camp site was amongst a stand of majestic river gums right on the banks of the swollen Murchison river. Exploring the station we found the original cottage, a couple of old army tanks, shearing shed, shearers quarters, and much to the kids delight a sheep yard full of goats!

Mid morning we set off to see the sights of the Kalbarri National Park, first along the ocean cliffs and then inland to the river gorges... both spectacular (with a break for lunch and a swim at red bluff beach).

As the sun sank into the Indian Ocean we headed back to the station where the kids disappeared with their new friends, playing in the shearers shed and rounding up the goats!

We finished the night around a communal camp fire sharing travel stories and marsh mellows.